November 30, 2014

10 Acres Bistro, Downtown Victoria

I was heading down to Las Vegas a couple of weeks back and the lovely Brunette of my Acquaintance deserved a fine meal for letting me go down solo.  The idea of farm-to-plate is appealing.  Knowing where the food comes from means that the chef can build menus that suit the food, get it in fresh and roll with the seasons.  Then again, I've always been told not to visit an abattoir, so maybe I don't want to know too much about where my food comes from.

At least my meat.  There's is nothing too bad about cuting down some Kale and Chard, or digging up potatoes.  Unless you are allergic to mud and grime under your fingernails.  But fresh veg that you've grown does seem to taste better.

Can 10 Acres capture that?

The location has been a few different places since I've been here. One memory of it was back when I first moved to Victoria. Some poor guy dressed in chef whites holding out menus for tourists at the lower end of Government street.  He looked desperate and tired. Tourist didn't want to be bother, however passionate he seemed. I have no idea if the food was any good, but I did feel sorry for him trying to drum up trade.

10 Acres doesn't seem to need this tactic to get them in.  When I got there at 4pm to book a table it was quiet.  When I got back two hours later, it was full, with guests being turned away, much to the chagrin of one local. He seemed to think that it was a terrible shame he couldn't get a seat, being local and all, and that was more important that tourists.  The bar area was full up at all the corners; the patio heaters were keeping the semi-outdoors space warm; and the warren of narrow rooms down into the back of the restaurant were all full.  Though parking the poor lady on crutches down two sets of stairs seemed a little unreasonable

We got a high, bench table near the bar. A highly enthusiastic server set us up with some drinks.  She made up a ginger beer and bitters combination for me, which sharpened up the taste buds.  The sharp, bittered ginger drink was fantastic and matched well with my meal.  Good move to cater to the driver well with something interesting but teetotal. The Brunette got a fancy Negroni cocktail, as I recall.  She liked it, and the wine with the meal got a big thumbs up too.

For my meal, I ordered the half-chicken from the rotisserie.  Mostly because I am a sucker for good roasted chicken, but partly because with an early flight the next day, I didn't want anything too heavy (fish and chips; or a creamy Tagliatelle were both consider).  I didn't want steak-frites, as I was expecting to eat steak on vacation (I didn't get any the end, but never mind).  And I didn't want to have the risk of a seafood stew with a clam gone rogue.

I ignored that risk though to try one of the Brunette's mussels on her big bowl of Salt Spring island bi-valves.  There were just done... like -just-.  Ten second less in the pot and they'd have been a warm mess.  But cooked to this point, they weren't tough, or beginning to mush up.  They quivered there in the white wine sauce, garlic filtering through the meat of the mussel.  Well worth it.

We also ordered a side of the seasonal vegetables, all from the farm.  A whole mix of veg, all roasted long enough so they were on first name terms with each other, but not yet overly friendly.  Carrots, parsnip, strings of green veg.  Tasted great, with that fresh picked flavour I've had from my own vegetables.

My chicken was juicy and moist with a rich glaze of sauce. The skin had got crispy in all the right places, while the interior was cooked through perfectly. The fresh roasted potatoes had that combination of a crisp skins and battered, soft insides.  The kale coleslaw was also fresh, and had a crisp bite to it.

It was a little -too- fresh though, and I had to send it back to the kitchen after over turning one leaf to find something that shouldn't have been there.  The server grabbed it straight away, apologized and whisked it off.  She offered us a free dessert after depositing the plate in the kitchen. A cook came out a few minutes later with a fresh dish, and profuse apologies for the problem.  They handled this very professionally.  I'd prefer not to have my farm fresh food that farm-like, but things happen.  They dealt with it... though I did toss over the coleslaw a lot on the second run, and probably should have asked for it without.  Just because it stuck in my head that I might get a repeat.

As an aside, I was a little unsure if I should relay the problem. I liked the food there. The Brunette loved it.  I like the locally sourced and cooked simply menu.  It is home-cooked kitchen table food. It's not fancy.  It's not pushing any bar into the exotic, or technical gastronomy.  But executing the simple concept itself is a challenge, to keep it simple and unfussy.  I was a big fan of the place up until that point.  And three minutes after getting my replacement dish, a big fan again. My goal is not the cheer-lead for restaurants in Victoria and write bland, happy reviews.  My goal is to write about what I thought, tasted and saw.  If it is an unfair reflection, I'm happy to discuss it.

So, they sorted us out a free dessert, with no problems... a rich chocolate zuccini brownie.  Moist, flavoursome and finished up a good meal.  We wandered out after settling the bill with happy stomachs and a wrapped up portion of chicken that, I'm told, went down a treat cold in sandwiches the next day.

The restaurant would suit a small group looking for a casual meal, or a couple looking for a relaxed meal out.  There's a good range of beers and wines, though the bar service was rather slow, as the Brunette pointed out as well.  But the food was a hit overall.  The space has a great feel.  Would visit again.



10 Acres Bistro, Bar & Farm on Urbanspoon

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