10 Acres Bistro, Downtown Victoria

I was heading down to Las Vegas a couple of weeks back and the lovely Brunette of my Acquaintance deserved a fine meal for letting me go down solo.  The idea of farm-to-plate is appealing.  Knowing where the food comes from means that the chef can build menus that suit the food, get it in fresh and roll with the seasons.  Then again, I've always been told not to visit an abattoir, so maybe I don't want to know too much about where my food comes from.

At least my meat.  There's is nothing too bad about cuting down some Kale and Chard, or digging up potatoes.  Unless you are allergic to mud and grime under your fingernails.  But fresh veg that you've grown does seem to taste better.

Can 10 Acres capture that?

The location has been a few different places since I've been here. One memory of it was back when I first moved to Victoria. Some poor guy dressed in chef whites holding out menus for tourists at the lower end of Government street.  He looked desperate and tired. Tourist didn't want to be bother, however passionate he seemed. I have no idea if the food was any good, but I did feel sorry for him trying to drum up trade.

10 Acres doesn't seem to need this tactic to get them in.  When I got there at 4pm to book a table it was quiet.  When I got back two hours later, it was full, with guests being turned away, much to the chagrin of one local. He seemed to think that it was a terrible shame he couldn't get a seat, being local and all, and that was more important that tourists.  The bar area was full up at all the corners; the patio heaters were keeping the semi-outdoors space warm; and the warren of narrow rooms down into the back of the restaurant were all full.  Though parking the poor lady on crutches down two sets of stairs seemed a little unreasonable

We got a high, bench table near the bar. A highly enthusiastic server set us up with some drinks.  She made up a ginger beer and bitters combination for me, which sharpened up the taste buds.  The sharp, bittered ginger drink was fantastic and matched well with my meal.  Good move to cater to the driver well with something interesting but teetotal. The Brunette got a fancy Negroni cocktail, as I recall.  She liked it, and the wine with the meal got a big thumbs up too.

For my meal, I ordered the half-chicken from the rotisserie.  Mostly because I am a sucker for good roasted chicken, but partly because with an early flight the next day, I didn't want anything too heavy (fish and chips; or a creamy Tagliatelle were both consider).  I didn't want steak-frites, as I was expecting to eat steak on vacation (I didn't get any the end, but never mind).  And I didn't want to have the risk of a seafood stew with a clam gone rogue.

I ignored that risk though to try one of the Brunette's mussels on her big bowl of Salt Spring island bi-valves.  There were just done... like -just-.  Ten second less in the pot and they'd have been a warm mess.  But cooked to this point, they weren't tough, or beginning to mush up.  They quivered there in the white wine sauce, garlic filtering through the meat of the mussel.  Well worth it.

We also ordered a side of the seasonal vegetables, all from the farm.  A whole mix of veg, all roasted long enough so they were on first name terms with each other, but not yet overly friendly.  Carrots, parsnip, strings of green veg.  Tasted great, with that fresh picked flavour I've had from my own vegetables.

My chicken was juicy and moist with a rich glaze of sauce. The skin had got crispy in all the right places, while the interior was cooked through perfectly. The fresh roasted potatoes had that combination of a crisp skins and battered, soft insides.  The kale coleslaw was also fresh, and had a crisp bite to it.

It was a little -too- fresh though, and I had to send it back to the kitchen after over turning one leaf to find something that shouldn't have been there.  The server grabbed it straight away, apologized and whisked it off.  She offered us a free dessert after depositing the plate in the kitchen. A cook came out a few minutes later with a fresh dish, and profuse apologies for the problem.  They handled this very professionally.  I'd prefer not to have my farm fresh food that farm-like, but things happen.  They dealt with it... though I did toss over the coleslaw a lot on the second run, and probably should have asked for it without.  Just because it stuck in my head that I might get a repeat.

As an aside, I was a little unsure if I should relay the problem. I liked the food there. The Brunette loved it.  I like the locally sourced and cooked simply menu.  It is home-cooked kitchen table food. It's not fancy.  It's not pushing any bar into the exotic, or technical gastronomy.  But executing the simple concept itself is a challenge, to keep it simple and unfussy.  I was a big fan of the place up until that point.  And three minutes after getting my replacement dish, a big fan again. My goal is not the cheer-lead for restaurants in Victoria and write bland, happy reviews.  My goal is to write about what I thought, tasted and saw.  If it is an unfair reflection, I'm happy to discuss it.

So, they sorted us out a free dessert, with no problems... a rich chocolate zuccini brownie.  Moist, flavoursome and finished up a good meal.  We wandered out after settling the bill with happy stomachs and a wrapped up portion of chicken that, I'm told, went down a treat cold in sandwiches the next day.

The restaurant would suit a small group looking for a casual meal, or a couple looking for a relaxed meal out.  There's a good range of beers and wines, though the bar service was rather slow, as the Brunette pointed out as well.  But the food was a hit overall.  The space has a great feel.  Would visit again.

Four Mile House, View Royal

Pubs that do a good brunch.... trying to think of a top five on Vancouver Island list.  There's lots of places open early for the sports fans, or for lazy Sunday mornings before the real trade starts around noon, but I'm drawing a blank right now on great ones.

The Four Mile House does a Sunday brunch.  A small menu, that covers the breakfast basics to get things under way, especially for the poor unfortunates working Sunday.  Or the hungry runners coming in from the cold, damp November morning.

Our party of four contained both workers and runners. We convinced the server to get the fire lit, so that warmth flowed out into the open main bar room.  The idea of sitting under out door heat lamps was given to us, but that seems like a waste of energy, and also not a good way to keep the elements out.  It was a day for indoors, feeling cocooned up in our own bubbles.

It is also a day for brevity in reviews.

I ordered a hash skillet, which was plenty of potato, meat and eggs covered Hollandaise sauce.  Parts of the skillet were only luke-warm, possibly as it was served in a china dish, not a big metal skillet.  The hollandaise was just hollandaise, and nothing special,  The eggs were cooked about right.  The coffee was warm and plentiful.

Two others ordered the Four Mile stack: A ham slice topped with a waffle, topped with bacon, topped with a waffle, topped with sausage, topped with a waffle, topped with eggs.  With fruit, syrup and whipped cream on the side.  This was 'a lot of meat' (quothed Andrea). It took some deconstruction to be edible, unless you have an unhinge-able jaw you need to split this down. Good waffles, while the meat was typical breakfast protein... I snagged a sausage, and it was an average sage-spiced pork tube.

Good value for a monster breakfast, but not exceptional such that I urge you to drive out to View Royal.

I feel much the same about the Four Mile as the beer they brew.... I love the design of the labels on their beer, but the contents is just average.  I love the feel of the pub and the way it is laid out, but the food and service is just average.  You can do better in other places around town, so unless living near by, why bother going here?

EDIT : Two of the people I was with seemed to think this review was harsh and unfair.  They noted the staff were really friendly, getting the fire turned on.  And how often our coffee mugs were refilled.  They also reported the bacon was -almost- as good as the bacon at 'Relish'.  Which is very high praise.

I didn't want to come across as harsh, just trying to communicate it was an average experience... some good points, a couple of negative ones, but over all... it was there, we ate there, it'll still be there and no reason for it not to be there, or for anyone to avoid it.  Just no reason to drive across three municipalities to get there.  But if nearby, why not?

La Taquisa, Downtown Victoria

Burritos and Tacos and Tex-Mex were a holiday treat for my Dad.  He never loved the pseudo-Mexican you could get in London, but whenever he came over to the US, he'd always try and get one meal in based around spicy beef, beans and tortilla.

I liked a big burrito, stuffed full of protein, beans, cheese and good dollop of sour cream.  The best, fast burrito I've had is about 3 minutes walk from where I am right now, Qdoba in Seattle airport.  He said name dropping to prove his jet setting ways.  For airport food, especially, they make a great tasting, rolled right in front of your face, hot burrito.  The meat is spiced, but not hot. The tortilla is steamed and looks like it could be placed over your face as a refreshing hot towel.  But it tastes nothing like a hot towel, being doughy and flexible, keeping in the contents all in place.

I like to grab a burrito there on lay over between Victoria and Seattle, filling my stomach up before a long distance flight; or refuelling after a long flight in.  Much better than anything high salt and high fat they serve on planes.  I recommend it, while sitting at a table watching the planes taking off.



In Vancouver, I have fond memories of eating at Red Burrito on Robson Street near my friends apartment.  Coming back in after a evening playing poker or watching a BC Lions game, we'd grab a burrito, wrapped in a red tortilla and dripping in bean juice.  The meat was not up to much, but the filler always seemed fresh and, well, filling.  But it need a plate, you couldn't transport this and eat in one handed.

Looking at Urbanspoon, it seems it has gone now.  It always looked like someone had put it up in a hurry, with a simple wooden counter and daubed on paint work, cheap Formica tables and plastic chairs.  You weren't encouraged to stay around, really. Get in, get food, get out to wherever the night was taking you next.

So, as this becomes a column of burritos I have known and loved, we go back to Victoria and La Taquisa.  They started in a small shop in Cook Street village, and have now grown to two outlets, one down town and one out in the West Side Village.  They are going for fast and authentic, with certified meat from BC producers.  You can choose your meal, meat and salsa to build up your own burrito or tacos.

The first time I went, I ordered the Chicken Mole burrito with a medium mild salsa.  It was not for me.  The chicken tasted too bland and gritty, and the mole really didn't compliment anything else in the burrito. There was nothing wrong with it, I just didn't care for it.

But I went back again, and got the Cowichan Chicken Tinga El Gordo.  Shredded chicken cooked in a chipotle stew, and then wrapped with grated cheese and beans.  And extra beans for the El Gordo (big sized) wrap.  The tortillas are fresh and you can see the staff making them in the kitchen as you wait.  The meat complimented the rest of the filling, and the fresh, spicy flavour came through to make a package that worked together. Filled me right up, and no complaints.

I sat at the bar table talking through the world and it's worries with a good friend.  There's space to sit and relax over your food. They've made a bright, open space, with a few bench tables.  And decent sized too so you can spread out.  The only odd corner is the drinks and utensils alley way that has the recycling centre.  It seems like a dingy little space where I'm dumping my waste, but also getting a fresh glass of water.  I don't know, but those two things seem like they shouldn't go together.

I am not sure if La Taquisa will somewhere I remember in years to come, but for now, it's good spot.

Hernande'z, Downtown Victoria

I used to love Hernande'z when I worked down town or I had cause to be downtown for a fast and fresh lunch.  The mixture of a lightly spiced burritos and fresh local food was a delight.  As I've moved out to the sticks to work, I'm not there as often, and have tended to eat at the Interactivity Board Game Cafe before or during my weekly evening gaming sessions.

But I had noticed a regular weekend brunch with my very favourite meal : 'Huevos Rancheros' taking centre place in the menu.  I prepared with a  fifteen km run with Andrea, then met with the lovely Brunette of my Acquaintance and two of my best-est friends.

We got seated in the walk through mall that Hernande'z lives in, on a little table opposite the closed coffee shop. We ordered in shop water and my friends got in a small basket of nachos to warm up with.  The server was young and had the slight confusion of a teenager in her first job, but with plenty of enthusiasm, so no real problem there. One of the chefs did mention they wished there was coffee available when they opened on a Sunday, and it is one miss on the menu for brunch.  I wonder if there is a quick and easy, but authentic coffee substitute they could offer?

I ordered the standard Huevos, served on thin corn flour tortillas, while the Brunette went for the Huaraches Rancheros.  These are much the same but with one big, thicker corn tortilla that looks a bit like a sandal (and where the name comes from), made from a maize dough and lightly fried.  Both dishes were served with fresh eggs, fresh made beans, fresh salsa and a small heap of a potatoes.

There has been talk that the quality at Hernande'z has gone down hill in the last few years.  This is not apparent in the brunch.  The eggs and beans were as fresh as promised, and tasted wonderful.  The beans had that mushy, grainy feel with a savoury and, well, beany flavour. The salsa was  lively and tangy but not hot, just a bite from the tomatoes.  And those breakfast potatoes were parboiled, fried up a bit and served hot, and kept the new potato taste in there - slightly waxy, slightly earthy.

The tortilla was fresh, soft and you could taste the corn flour, the gritty, savoury dough warm and just a bit of a resistance to the bite. The huarache as more of the same but thicker with a slight crumble to the texture.  Both meals were plenty for one hungry person, and my friends shared a plate between them and were well satisfied.

A great brunch pick up for fresh and fast food.

EDIT : Quote from the Brunette 'Probably the best Huevos I have ever had'.

Heart of Asia and Noodlebox, Mount Tolmie, Victoria

After watching Steve Coogan and Rob Brydon in 'The Trip to Italy', the lovely Brunette of my Acquaintance and I were hungry.  The film (watched at Cinecenta at UVic) has the pair eating at a bunch of gorgeous Italian restaurants and goofing off about famous people, their careers, being middle-aged and active comedians.  Both the original 'The Trip' and this are well worth watching if you like British Comedy and food.  Or food comedy and the British.

So, watching them gorge on pasta and well cooked food, we were hungry and fancied eating more than a small plates meal at Little Jumbo, and decided to try the Heart of Asia.  Previously, the venue was Jojo Jajangmyeon, but that has closed down, and has been replaced by the Heart of Asia. They've had at least two days with a 'Grand Opening' sign outside, so they've been up and running for a couple of weeks or more now.

We went in and got seated.  The decor hasn't changed much, a few small rooms for private eating and nice wooden tables with open lattice dividers in the main room.  We were handed two tatty looking menus and a nicely printed drinks menu.  Except, they only had bottled beers to serve. No cesars or highballs.  Slightly odd.  And bottles of Canadian were $5.25.  A 12oz bottle.

We got into the menu.  I think I should have checked the menu through before hand, and the rest of the rest of this review is possibly a collision of my expectations with reality.  The menu included Griddled Bull frog, Spicy sheep's intestines, Vegetables and Tripe, and Beef brains.  The Chicken Wings were 6 for $13, though they promised that the fat was well rendered for a crispy texture.  $2 a wing is a bit steep...

Throughout the menu, items were crossed off, in different coloured bits of sticky tape.  The whole thing had been scotched taped together from what looked like two halves, with staples hanging out of one side.  From a restaurant a month old?  Items were in Chinese first and English second, with many items having no price in dollars. I assume the Hanzi next to the items said something equivalent to 'market price'.

We asked about the noodles, and these were off the menu. The hot and sour soup was not vegetarian (no reason why it should be), but we were then informed it could be made that way. At $11, I assumed it was a massive bowl.  But wanting a vegetarian dish, there was nothing that appetizing.  As was pointed out afterwards, Asian food is not very often vegetarian.

So, we decided this was not for us tonight and Noodlebox was going to serve us better.  I was thinking I'd come back solo sometime and try the spicy intestines, just to see what it was like. But tonight, the Brunette and I wanted something simpler and with meat from known sources.  Again, I understand my expectations for the restaurant were wrong.

We told our server we decided we didn't want to eat tonight and to get the bill.  She looked confused and left to find the host.  The host, dressed in a baseball cap (a very different look from the well dressed waitresses) told us that we could have the soup, as it was vegetarian.  We said we didn't want soup, sorry, we'd be leaving.  We were then informed there was a minimum $20 charge.  We'd had two beers and been there for 10 minutes.  There wasn't a queue and it wasn't busy.  Nothing on the menu said about a minimum spend, so I refused to pay this minimum.  The host walked off obviously annoyed with us.  I got up to the cashier, paid the $13 for the two beers, slightly miffed, and the host explained that it was a 'temporary menu' so it wasn't all there yet with the words for the base charge, and not all the dishes were ready yet. Kind of hard to play guess what you actually have.  But still, I'm thinking at this point, maybe I'll come back and try something.  Clearly the cuisine is different from my usual expectations of Chinese food.

But the killer blow for me was when they took my twenty dollar bill, handed back five to me and stuck a toonie in the tip jar.  Without asking, without offering me the chance to tip. I'm done with them now, and I head out rapidly, fuming, with the Brunette just behind and trying to get me to calm down.

As I said, on reflection, I should have checked the menu.  We walked back by later, and the place was pretty full, and they seem to be doing a good trade.  I'm guessing they serve much more authentic Szechuan than this Brit expected, and this mismatch led to the poor experience I got, and the expectation of a full menu and more regular 'chinese' food.

But I also don't expect to have tips forced off me, minimum spends imposed, an open restaurant to have a barely there menu (literally and figuratively), and a bar to not be able to do simple mixed drinks.




So we walked over to Noodlebox, and got fed a good Pad Thai.  Rice noodles, lots of peanuts, a decent fire in the medium-hot chicken and a full belly.  I agree with another poster on Urbanspoon that the sauce is a little watery, but the food there always fills me up, has a good combination of spice, flavour and texture.  Asian food for the western palate, I guess. We got fed and served to our expectations, so all was right with the world.