February 15, 2015

Perro Negro, Downtown Victoria

Perro Negro means black dog.  I think Hemingway dubbed his depression as a 'Black Dog'.  He was in love with Spain, with his books on the Spanish Civil War and Bull fighting and other manliness.  I suspect this tapas bar is not named after clinical depression or Hemingway's struggles with it.  Much more likely, the owner of Ferris' is involved and he loves his pugs...  the logo is a pug wearing a pair of bull horns.

The space is reached through the upstairs bar at Ferris', but it looks like a more direct entrance will be available sometime, given the door and name plate at 538 Yates.  They've taken over space above one of the unused shop fronts, turning the brick and wood beamed interior into a smallish tapas bar, with a cosy, warm feel.  It is good to see Victoria using space in the downtown core, and not letting the upstairs of shops go unused.  There's a depressing amount of empty space downtown now, I hope a trend that gets reversed, else more people will head to the malls, leaving the vibrancy of Victoria's centre to fade.  Which is not good for locals or tourists.

So good on Ferris' to take on a new project, and add to the series of relaxed dining spaces it runs.  Everything on the menu is on shareable plates. The drink menu is long on wine and cocktails, a little short on the beer but has a great non-alcoholic section.  There's seating for about 30-40 people, with some bar seating and lots of decent sized tables for two or four, big enough to get the food spread around, small enough so you can lean in and talk.  There's a surround sound system playing flamenco, loud enough to cover up the ambient noise from the other diners, but quiet enough to hear your friends.

I started with a virgin caesar, sevred with a fresh shucked oyster, a single muscle, and a tasty green bean (the word 'shuck' is a wonderful one, after ;juggernaut', it might be my favourite).  The fresh oyster was juicy and briny joy, spiced with some hot sauce and a bit of horse radish. The caesar itself was hot, which I liked though was a bit of a shock on the first slurp.  Nice starter, and I prefer it served this way than adulterated with vodka.

We then got some serious business of tapas ordering.  I don't have notes on every single item, but among the memorable items there was a fantastic beef short rib 'estofado de carne'.  The rib was slow cooked to fall apart tenderness, offering up a huge, rich flavour. The sauce has olives and orange rind in it, which richens the flavour, and sharpens it up.  And you might get lucky to eat an olive in the gravy, with the very different mouth-feel.  Well worth sharing, even though the half portion is $10, and it's a small half.

The croquette of the day was oozey cheese wrapped with a spiced prosciutto, breaded and fried. Very rich, and I wanted more.  The dish comes with just three thumb sized torpedoes though.  A little snack with the wine and beer, I guess.

We also tried the quince and quail special. My good friend tells me she hates food which starts with a Q. This didn't change her mind.  The quail was served cold, which let the fat congeal and gave it a feeling of sucking a half defrosted raw chicken leg.  The quince didn't really complement the poultry, and the salad served with it go soaked in the meat juices, which really was not pleasant.  I was not a fan.

That was a miss, but the 'papas bravas' were excellent.  Cubes of potatoes, served on a tomato sauce base with a thick garlic sauce on top.  Plain, and simple, they went well with the other food and the more complex cocktails my friends were drinking.  I had moved onto a Moroccan Mint Iced Tea by now, and that was pretty good, though served with a little too much ice, so it lost some of the sweet, sharp flavour by the bottom of the glass.

There was also some baked oyster shared.  This didn't convince me to like baked oysters any more than I did already.  Which is not very much at all.  Nothing wrong with the dish, it was all cooked well, but it's a dish I've had exactly once (made by worked friends) that I've enjoyed.  Not enough crunch in there, I think.  We also shared some chocolate pate served on tiny toasts.  A rich, smooth ganache.  It went down a treat even in the middle of more savoury fare.

All-in-all, it's a good experience, with a good mix of food, great service and nice atmosphere.  Portions are a little small for the prices, I felt. However, it was filling up as when got there at 5.30, and by the time we left, it was humming along.  As was Upstairs at Ferris'.  A new spot to hit up for a small group of good friends, or a casual date night for foodies.  Which means I will be taking the lovely Brunette of my Acquaintance soon....


Perro Negro on Urbanspoon


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