July 06, 2014

Eagle Wing Whale Watching, Fisherman's Wharf

Orcas! Whales! Dolphins! Oh my!

I think there's a least a half dozen operators in Victoria that promise to take you out to see the whales and dolphins that swim around in the Salish Sea.  I have heard little about the reputation of each, knowing only what I've seen myself on the Prince of Whales, several years ago, and MacKays of Port McNeill.  Both had let me see whales from a large covered ship, and the trip in Port McNeill is a favourite memory of my mother's and also mine.  So if you are up there, use them.

But down here, each of the companies seem to tell you they are the best, they guarantee whales and that, if you'd only come with us, it'll be a magical experience.  I can't find a comprehensive review of them all head-to-head (if someone has the $600 or so it'd cost me to go out on consecutive days, I'll volunteer to do one).

But, my mother had been out with Eagle Wing Tours four years ago, and while we were on Fisherman's Wharf a couple of weeks back, we saw that there'd been sightings of the J and L pods around the San Juan islands that morning.  This was useful to know, as Mum sponsored the orca Rhapsody of the J-Pod at Christmas. This sponsorship help pay for research and to protect the southern island resident orcas.  Mum, she likes orcas.  So we signed up for that afternoon's tour, heading out in a fast 'scarab' boat... a long, narrow aluminium hulled boat.

The staff gave us the complete run down before we left, of what we might see, and how to be safe on the boat.  Also, we were kitted up in a survival jacket and over trousers to keep us warm in the wind.  Eagle Wind were keen to stress how they are carbon neutral and supportive of the research programmes, as well as their experience (something like 30 years worth of doing this job and working as marine biologists).  All very good, but without being out there to see them in action, talk is just talk.

We got seated at the front (the worst place for rough seas, but the best place to stay out of the wind and spray), and off we meandered out of the harbour.  Gentle, easy ride, we could watch the kayakers and the cruise ships and.... warp speed enabled!  This boat carved up the miles, around Trial Island, and up towards Sidney.  The whales, according to the radio links with the other boats in the area, were going through Active Pass.  Three groups were headed north, two from L-Pod with J-Pod in the lead.  All the boats in the business seem to stay in touch to help each other find the whales for their paying customers.  So, I guess if they are out there, someone will know where to find them. The limits of most of the smaller boats like the Zodiacs is about the edge of the Pass, but the captain here said this boat would take us to Tsawwassen if needed.

45 minutes or so of flying along and we slow down into the entrance of the pass, dodging around a BC ferry or two.  Up ahead, two other tour boats are drifting with engines off, a sign that there are whales nearby. We were treated to the pod rising for breaths out of the water every minute or so.  One or two smaller calves, their mothers and a large male (seen easily due to the large fins).  They even cut underneath the boat, rising just a few metres of to the side of us, unexpectedly to all.  The boats try to keep a respectful distance away from the animals, but the orcas seem to consider the boats just a small speck on the ceiling of their world.

We left the back group behind and headed to the north end of the whale convoy, where J-pod was.  And we got a display.  One orca was breaching; leaping out and crashing down on its side.  The crew's biologist suggested it may be for fun, or to scratch an itch or stretch out a little after a slower travelling cycle. He reckoned he sees this behaviour half the time they come through the pass.

The breeching happened every time the orca came up for breath, which was about every 2-3 minutes.  A little calm, some fins would pop up, the majority orcas would snort and suck in breath so close you could hear it. Then this huge beast would leap, and splash down.  A sight that makes you hold your breath.  It sounds like hyperbole, but to me, it's just wonderful to see.  I guess you could see some poor, captured 'killer' whale do this at Seaworld down in the States.  Or you could see it in the wild (luck, but the best experiences happen by chance, and not because they are fed to you).

There was a UVic researcher, Valerie Shore, on the boat who is also a professional wildlife photographer. Her guess, from the markings, that it was Rhapsody making the leaps.  A show, specially for my mum.  It was awesome to see the whales close, and in the quiet of the Georgia Strait.

The crew kept us to fed with knowledge between the surfacing of the animals, explaining the habits and lives of these mammals, with a clear care for their environment, imploring us to try and do a small bit to keep the rivers clean, so the salmon runs are large.  These beasts needs a colossal amount of fish per day, and there's a worry that the declining fish stocks will have a long term effect on the orca population.

The trip back was much the same as the trip up, speeding down past the Sidney.  Those not quite so sheltered behind the wind shield looked a little chilly. Those who'd refused the hat and gloves probably regretted that decision.  And as we rounded Gonzalez Point, the wind and waves got up, and the boat started to skip between the peaks.  This made for a much more jolting ride than on the way out.  And a couple of big splashes probably woke those up at the back with a sea-salt spray.  Good for the skin, I'm sure.  All part of the deal, and not unexpected from the briefing we'd been given.

Two things to note on the scarab : there's no hot drinks service, but there hot chocolate available on your return to warm you up.  There is a toilet, but I'm pretty sure you'd not want to be in there while travelling... right at the front it's likely to be a rough ride.

We got back after being out for close to three and half hours, and travelling over 100 km.  Well worth the time.  Eagle Wing seem to be a bit more expensive than other trips, but their extended range in this case meant we got to see the Orcas, and for a long time.  Also, the knowledge and passion for the job was clear. Eagle Wind seem to win the top tour company on tripadvisor.com (over hearing their radio conversations, they are keen to keep this as well), so definitely a bar to measure the others against.

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