Recently, I headed north out of Victoria to visit Port McNeill. My mother had decided that a fitting way to spend her birthday was to sit on a boat in the Johnstone Strait watching orcas. My parents live in Scotland. It's a long way to come, but I'm not complaining that they decided to visit their son. Luckily, I have friends in Port McNeill, and even better, they run a resort there. Yes, we got a good rate for the rooms we stayed in due to that connection, so there's the full disclosure.
We left late enough to avoid any commuter traffic on the Malahat, and had a long clear run up to Parksville. An average cup of coffee was had at the Pacific Brimm Cafe (the pun is better than the java), and then a change of drivers at the Tim Horton's in Campbell River. Then scenery started get interesting. Long sweeps of highway, wending through the pine forests. Great fun to drive, a single lane highway, but on a lovely sunny day I was starting to wish for a convertible.
We hit Port McNeill mid-afternoon and checked into the Black Bear Resort, which is on the hillside above downtown Port McNeill. Or in my English parlance... the town centre. Port McNeill is a town of around 2,600 folks. Not very big, but up here the nearest next major place is Port Hardy, with 4,000 people, 40km away. It's the distance between places that gives them their own specialness, not the just the size.
Port McNeill exists on a mix of tourism, forestry and the working a big gravel pit. The town has a marina for pleasure craft, a BC Ferry that serves Sointula and Alert Bay, and a few shops and restaurants. Everyday there started with a low mist over the strait, which rose as the day went on revealing the coastal mountains on the mainland of BC. Sointula is on Malcolm Island, pretty much the last island of the coast of Vancouver Island before the open water of Charlotte Sound, and the Pacific. As such, it's cold water out there. I declined to take a swim.
We got in, refreshed after the drive, and hit the Northern Lights restaurant at the Haida Way Inn (Hide-away, get it? No? Neither did I for about 24 hours). There was a wide range of specials and standard meals, all towards the fine dining end, but not quite into the gourmet end. Actually, the menu reminded me of a British bistro circa 1995. Nothing now seems that adventurous, but it's not pies, burgers and fried food, either. Being by the sea, I went for the Seafood platter. Halibut, Salmon, Shrimp and Scallops, with corn bread and vegetables. The shrimp and scallops were excellent. Moist, tender, exactly what I want in seafood. The fish was okay. As a friend tells me, fish is so often over cooked when you dine out. And this was no exception. The salmon had just started to dry out, leaving it just the wrong side of done for me. Same with the halibut, which was just getting to the flaky stage. Still, a meal with family, on the hill above the ocean with good service.
An early night, with the joys of cable television to entertain me for a couple of hours. I don't have cable at home, so a diet of Discovery Channel and Food Network was nice to just browse around. Morning was a buffet breakfast (with make-your-waffles...) and plenty of coffee. Sorted me out perfectly, and we took a stroll down to the ferry, and made our way to Alert Bay.
Alert Bay is on Cormorant Island, but the village pretty much takes the whole of the island, and is home to part 'Namgis first nation. Features of the island include a traditional Big House, used extensively for band meetings, the world's tallest totem pole, a nice little high street and the Everglades. No crocodiles in the Everglades, but a fresh water swamp at the top of the hill above Alert Bay, man made a few decades ago when the salmon cannery dammed the stream, and caused the spring to flood the hill. We took a walk around their, and back along the board-walk in time for a coffee, bun and the boat back home. Where I cooked steaks on the BBQ with home-made salads for the family and our hosts (green salad and potato salad). Later on, several drinks by myself were had in the Haida Way Inn. And that's all you need to know about that.
I took a run the next day to work of the night before, while the folks took a massage in the spa. My morning was not as relaxing, but well needed... and there's worst places to go for a jog around. Though I suspect I'd not have taken the woodland paths if I'd been told before hand of the local bear and cougar currently walking around. Mind you, I might have broken my own record for the mile if I had come across one.
Refreshed, we took a walk to the logger sports day. Presented by a New Zealander, this was a group of half a dozen gentleman and half dozen ladies cutting up big and small bits of timber as quickly as possible under a variety of different conditions. No limbs were lost, despite the use of chainsaws, and axes swung (and thrown) around. The best event was the chainsaw drag race... souped up chainsaws waved through chunks of white pine as fast as possible. Quiet and serene it was not.
Dinner was had at the Sportsman, a Greek restaurant, also advertising steak, chicken, pizza, curry, pasta.... I'm usually sceptical of that many styles. Here it was only partly justified. I had a great piece of roast chicken, and a nice pile of veg from the salad bar. We came back the next night (as the other option was closed on Sunday) and had decent ribs with a insipid lasagne. The prime rib my father had was judged okay, but far too large for a normal appetite. The halibut my mum had was deemed good. So a mixed bunch. Service the first night was spotty (slow, monosyllabic yet rushed the first night, spot on the second with a different waitress). I'd go again for the salad bar and ribs.
Finally, though, the big day arrived. My mother's big trip out on a boat, to see whales. McKay's Whale Watching were our hosts on the 'Naiad Explorer', an aluminium hulled twin engined boat designed to run fast, but silent under water. Our hosts Nicki and Bill at first intended to head out west to see if the local resident pod of orcas was coming back down the strait. But a change of plan after a call from another boat in the area, and we were treated to a 30 minute display of orca hunting a porpoise and dolphin along the shores of Vancouver Island. The big Mother orca first flicked a porpoise about 10 foot in the air, and while her brood trailed behind, she gave chase to dolphin, which tried to keep ahead, but was eventually caught after circling around.
We had the view of the big whale breaching several times, with her companions (including a small calf) struggling to keep up the chase. And then after this display of the brutality of nature, we got too see a couple of hump back whales, a Dall's Porpoise and it's tiny calf, a whole load of lazy harbour seals and nesting Golden Eagles. I love harbour seals. They look so content on land, like a big snoozing dog, and so happy when in the water. Of course, these guys weren't being chased by a killer whale...
Bill and Nicki served up a decent pot of soup, and some cakes for a snack later on the trip. Both were highly informative of the local wildlife, what was happening around us, and a bit of history of the area. And on the way back, we saw a black bear, ambling along the sea front... just about where I had been running the day before.
Next day, it was goodbye to Black Bear (who I'd recommend even if I didn't know the Manager... clean, comfortable, great shower, great service, nice pool and tub for a relax in as well) and back down the island.
We stopped briefly in Telegraph Cove and looked around the whale museum, complete with skeletons of the sea life we'd seen the day before. While sitting and watching the world on the pier, we also saw more Dall's Porpoises in the mouth of the cove, gallivanting around. The cove has a very nice series of heritage houses, converted for short stays, and plenty of information about the history of the place. It seems to be a popular jumping of point for adventure kayakers heading into the Broughton Archipelago.
The only place I'd note on the trip back was Sue's Place, about 5 kilometres north of Campbell River. Huge doorsteps of sandwiches for a good price. Or a perfectly sized hot dog... if you have a big appetite (I often do when driving). I'd recommend it as a place to stop before or after the 200 km tip to the North End of island.
July 30, 2012
July 26, 2012
Pho-ever, Mount Tolmie, Victoria
More adventures in local dining, this time with the parents. Having got in from a hard days work (honest) and hard cycle home (actually a very pleasant ride along the Lochside trail), I didn't want to cook. The parents didn't want to go too far. Pho-ever is close by, and a regular stand by for me.
Pho-ever has Pho in the title, but the menu extends beyond bowls of beef and noodle soup, and has an extensive Korean range of meals, plus a nod to the Japanese Bento box. And a wide selection of bubble tea. The Korean food is the best I've had in town, but I'm not an expert on Korean cuisine itself, so it might be catering for this Brit's tastes. The Chicken Ggan Pong Gi (S-6) blends a good spicy heat, crispy meat and a pile of sweet/sour veggies. I have to remember to try other things when I go in, but it's a favourite.
This time though, I did want something less spicy and simpler. Plus I'd been thinking about Pho all day, so a big bowl of Pho was ordered for myself (P8 - with Brisket, Flank and Rare Steak slices) and my father (P9 - same as mine with added meatballs). Mum decided to try the Chick Duphab with BBQ sauce, craving something unspiced (on their previous visit the heat had been a bit more than they expected).
But to kick off, two orders of Spring Roll and a Kiwi Bubble tea was ordered. Mum had wanted to know what Bubble tea was, and my vague description of "iced fruit tea with tapioca" wasn't really doing it justice. A bright green glass with black frog spawn lurking at the bottom arrived, and I fully expected to have a Bubble Tea to finish off with my Jasmine Tea. Nope. While not being a taste revelation, I think it was at least an interesting diversion. But she'll not be demanding more trips to the Bubble tea Emporiums of BC.
The spring rolls were hot, a little greasy, but packed with a nice mix of meat and veg. Crisp and kicked things of nicely. Then the Pho arrived. For those who don't know pho, it seems to be pronounced by Anglophones like 'faux', which leads to all sorts of puns (also nearby is Pho-nomenal). However, I'm not sure that the original Vietnamese is pronounced that way, and it's meant to be said more like "fuh".
However it's pronounced, it's a big bowl of rice noodles, covered with cooked (or partially cooked) meat, and then covered with a light spiced beef broth. The heat of the broth finishes the cooking process of. You then add bean sprouts, coriander, chilli and lime to your liking, give it a quick stir and eat.
The meat can be your straight forward beef flank/brisket/steak slices. Or sliced tendon, tripe, ox tail. Or in other cases chicken, fish or vegetables. Pho-ever used to advertise in the Vegeterian section "veggie pho" which was made with beef broth. Hmm. That's come out of the menu now, and is in the meat eaters section.
I like their pho. The broth has a very slight gingery sweetness, and the meat is all well prepared and neither tough or over soft and soggy. The rare meat slices are red, and cook of perfectly in the heat of the broth, and the noodles are just slick enough to carry the broth. I like Pho in general. It's hearty, it's not complicated and I'm sure it has good hydration properties before a night on the drinks, or after a hard work out.
I haven't quite mastered the art of a good noodle slurp without inhaling my food, but can manage the chop sticks well enough to feed. Dad had a little more trouble than me, but they provided a big serving spoon and a western fork if you request it. But it's fun sometimes to struggle a bit with your meal. Again, I don't think it was food revelation, but he enjoyed trying something a bit different and new. Mum was very happy with the rice and chicken dish, and we all left very happily content, fed and ready to face the weekend...
Final Bill
Bubble Tea - $3.95
Spring Roll (x2) - $3.95 each
Beef Pho (x2) - $8.45 each
Chicken Dupbabh - $8.95
Tsingtao Beer - $5.00
Total Bill, including Taxes and Tip : $55
Address : 1669 Pear St., Victoria, BC.
Phone : (250) 388-0028
Website : http://www.facebook.com/phoevervictoria
Pho-ever has Pho in the title, but the menu extends beyond bowls of beef and noodle soup, and has an extensive Korean range of meals, plus a nod to the Japanese Bento box. And a wide selection of bubble tea. The Korean food is the best I've had in town, but I'm not an expert on Korean cuisine itself, so it might be catering for this Brit's tastes. The Chicken Ggan Pong Gi (S-6) blends a good spicy heat, crispy meat and a pile of sweet/sour veggies. I have to remember to try other things when I go in, but it's a favourite.
This time though, I did want something less spicy and simpler. Plus I'd been thinking about Pho all day, so a big bowl of Pho was ordered for myself (P8 - with Brisket, Flank and Rare Steak slices) and my father (P9 - same as mine with added meatballs). Mum decided to try the Chick Duphab with BBQ sauce, craving something unspiced (on their previous visit the heat had been a bit more than they expected).
But to kick off, two orders of Spring Roll and a Kiwi Bubble tea was ordered. Mum had wanted to know what Bubble tea was, and my vague description of "iced fruit tea with tapioca" wasn't really doing it justice. A bright green glass with black frog spawn lurking at the bottom arrived, and I fully expected to have a Bubble Tea to finish off with my Jasmine Tea. Nope. While not being a taste revelation, I think it was at least an interesting diversion. But she'll not be demanding more trips to the Bubble tea Emporiums of BC.
The spring rolls were hot, a little greasy, but packed with a nice mix of meat and veg. Crisp and kicked things of nicely. Then the Pho arrived. For those who don't know pho, it seems to be pronounced by Anglophones like 'faux', which leads to all sorts of puns (also nearby is Pho-nomenal). However, I'm not sure that the original Vietnamese is pronounced that way, and it's meant to be said more like "fuh".
However it's pronounced, it's a big bowl of rice noodles, covered with cooked (or partially cooked) meat, and then covered with a light spiced beef broth. The heat of the broth finishes the cooking process of. You then add bean sprouts, coriander, chilli and lime to your liking, give it a quick stir and eat.
The meat can be your straight forward beef flank/brisket/steak slices. Or sliced tendon, tripe, ox tail. Or in other cases chicken, fish or vegetables. Pho-ever used to advertise in the Vegeterian section "veggie pho" which was made with beef broth. Hmm. That's come out of the menu now, and is in the meat eaters section.
I like their pho. The broth has a very slight gingery sweetness, and the meat is all well prepared and neither tough or over soft and soggy. The rare meat slices are red, and cook of perfectly in the heat of the broth, and the noodles are just slick enough to carry the broth. I like Pho in general. It's hearty, it's not complicated and I'm sure it has good hydration properties before a night on the drinks, or after a hard work out.
I haven't quite mastered the art of a good noodle slurp without inhaling my food, but can manage the chop sticks well enough to feed. Dad had a little more trouble than me, but they provided a big serving spoon and a western fork if you request it. But it's fun sometimes to struggle a bit with your meal. Again, I don't think it was food revelation, but he enjoyed trying something a bit different and new. Mum was very happy with the rice and chicken dish, and we all left very happily content, fed and ready to face the weekend...
Final Bill
Bubble Tea - $3.95
Spring Roll (x2) - $3.95 each
Beef Pho (x2) - $8.45 each
Chicken Dupbabh - $8.95
Tsingtao Beer - $5.00
Total Bill, including Taxes and Tip : $55
Address : 1669 Pear St., Victoria, BC.
Phone : (250) 388-0028
Website : http://www.facebook.com/phoevervictoria
July 22, 2012
Travel : The Canadian, VIA Rail, Long Lac to Vancouver
As I mentioned before, back in June I drove half away across Canada, and came back by train. The journey down the Icefield Parkway was worth the trip alone. After that section, the trip between Banff and Ontario was without much drama or excitement. Actually, there was plenty to remember, but not interesting enough to the world at large to share the full details. And this post is going to be long enough...
However in short:
But we made it to Longlac, Northern Ontario, where I had to say good bye to my friend who was off to points East, and I was due to get on the Canadian to Vancouver. Longlac station is not like the railway stations in the UK. There was only the slightest indication it was a station (with only 3 trains a week, why advertise), no platform, and no ticket office. In the middle of an empty industrial lot, in a town where no-one spoke English. With no cell phone reception, I had to hope that the pay phone would get me out of trouble if I needed to find a bed for the night. My friend had another 200km to go, so left me at 6pm, the train already 20 minutes late.
But after two calls to VIA rail's customer services, I discovered the service was running two hours behind schedule. This was good news, as at least I knew it was coming, so I sat back, got out my e-reader and waited. And waited, slapping the bloodsucking insects, and slowly sweating in the evening heat. I'd not had a decent nights sleep or shower in the last 36 hours. I was about to get on a overnight train, in a seat, with a chance of no food service.
The train did arrive, clanging through the town, and stopped at the station as planned. Only person to get on was me. No packages on, no packages off. A train crew all running around for one dirty lone traveller. Tonnes and tonnes of train stopped, for me. Ah, the power. Got on, was shown to a seat and given a quick spiel of the set up. Which, thankfully, included a restaurant car still open for another hour.
I set myself up, had a quick change and rinse in the train toilet and to the observation car, which also had a bar. A can of Canadian (well, why not) and I was feeling settled at least. Dinner was served, and a very reasonable meal of chicken fillet and vegetables, on plates at a table with random strangers was had. The strangest part of the trip, for me, was the random pairing you'd have at each meal, talking to strangers over food. Some people would love this. I'm a bit more anti-social, but found you could keep a decent conversation going with most people over the 30 minute food service.
I got back into my seat, flicked out the foot rest, set the seat back and tried to sleep. Managed it for about 45 minutes, but my fellow passengers included one person taking up four seats, and still managing to lie in a position designed to snore the loudest. I got up around Sioux Lookout where we stopped for twenty minutes for fuel and passengers. It was midnight, and we'd covered about 300km, but this would have been 600km by road.
The rest of the night I slept fitfully, wandering around, and eventually finding a nice spot wrapped up in all my sweaters in the observation car on the top deck. No-one else was up there, so while it was cold, it was quiet. Until about an hour outside of Winnipeg, when people started to wake up and look for something to do. Which was stare out of the windows of the observation car, and discuss the best way to keep a Mr Sub sandwich fresh for a 36 hour train ride from Toronto.
At Winnipeg, the standard passengers have to get off, even if going onwards to Vancouver, and go amuse themselves in the city. On a Saturday morning at 8am. Nothing is open in Winnipeg at 8am on a Saturday. Not the station coffee shop. Not the cafe's near by. The Mall opened at 8.30, but I eventually found the YMCA was open as well, and went for a shower and a swim. I knew my fellow travellers would prefer a freshly washed me. Plus the swim got me awake again. And it passed the time long enough so I could then go grab a cheap breakfast in the mall, and still have time to do some laundry. Washed, with clean clothes and big mug of coffee, I reported back to the station to collect my ticket for the next two days. This time in a berth, which meant a bed, meals and all the coffee and tea I could drink.
The rest of Manitoba and Saskatchewan was more flat, rural countryside. I sat in one of the three observation cars for most the day, reading, napping and watching the world go by. The biggest problem I had on the trip that stopped my complete comfort (and we are hardly talking a massive one), was there was no plug sockets in the berth area. The only sockets I could find to charge phone and e-reader was on the lower floor of the observation deck, or in the wash-room in my sleeper carriage.
Each sleeper carriage had about 6 berths, a shower, two wash rooms and 6-8 cabins. The single person cabins were tiny, about the size of a twin bed. That space contained a sink the size of a cereal bowl and chair and a foot stool. The foot stool covered the toilet. Yep, each cabin had it's own toilet, right in the room. The chair and foot rest slide and unfolded into a bed that I assume takes up all the space. Meaning you sleep on top of a toilet. The two bed rooms with a upper and lower bunk had a small seperate wash-room, and they looked pretty cosy. There were bigger rooms, but I didn't get to sneak a look inside them.
My upper berth was made up around 9pm and consisted of a bunk bed, a thick curtain and a tricky climb up as the train rocked around a corner. There was no luggage shelf to put my overnight bag, but a careful arrangement of stuff meant I could tuck in quite nicely, shut the curtain and read myself to sleep. The gentle motion of the train sent me off to sleep, though at first the lack of a visual cue was a bit disconcerting. I went to bed with the train on time, and due in Edmonton at 6.30am. I had arranged to meet a couple of friends there for a cup of coffee, so I set the alarm for 6am for a shower and the first sitting of breakfast.
On awaking, I relearned that VIA rail doesn't have priority over freight, and time tables are guidelines. It was 6am, and we were a long way outside of Edmonton, and not likely to see the station until 8.30 at the earliest. And though in Alberta, there was little cell reception to send a message to people to tell them to go back to bed and not be waiting for me with large mugs of coffee.
Hmm, my peeves seem to be based around the availability of electronics. This says more about me than anything else.
Edmonton arrived 2 hours later than planned. Unlike UK stations, the Edmonton rail station is well outside of the city, but one set of friends was there to say hello and catch up, while the train split itself in half to add a super-duper observation car for the trip through the Rockies. The trip to the Rockies took another three hours, crossing over various rivers, with the mountain range slowly looming into sight. I sat at the rear of the train for this section, in the very last car. This car had a great view from the back of the train, as well as a nice stock of tea and biscuits to keep me going.
We stopped in Jasper after entering the edge of the Rockies. I had an hour, so I jumped off and had a pint in the Jasper Brew Pub to see if their beer was worth the lousy service we'd had on the way out. It wasn't. The IPA tasted like a very over-hopped Pale, with no complexity or balance. The service was still slow. I'd have been better of saving my dollars for another Fort Garry Dark on the train.
We headed out of Jasper, climbing over the Yellowhead pass again, looking down on the river and highway. The scenery here was just as stunning as on the way out, with the added advantage of not having to concentrate on driving, and the extra height above ground also helping you appreciate the view. Mount Robson was seen again, and it was as stunning as the first time. Different time of day, and different angle. I think I'd happily take a hike around the base of the Mountain and just watch it change as the light and weather changes during the day.
The VIA rail goes the long way around compared to the CP rail which goes through Calgary and the southern passes (and through some big looping tunnels). This makes for a long haul back down the Fraser River valley to Kamloops (400km+), and another 350km from there into Vancouver. So another night on the train, following the Fraser River. Another nights sleep when I went to bed thinking we were ahead of schedule, only to wake up early for breakfast and find ourselves still well outside the city. But another peaceful morning reading and eating a fantastic breakfast.
All the food was great. Small-ish portions, but well cooked and presented in the dining car with table service and (in one case) a song by the waiter. Nothing greasy, nothing that seemed just warmed over. Vegetables were fresh, nothing flash fried. The Raspberry Ice Cream cake was especially delicious, and they claimed the chef prepared it on the way. And at around $20 for a meal if you were paying as you go, it was good value. Not cheap, but there's many $40 dinners I've had that would have lost out in a fight with the simple, effective food on the train.
So into Vancouver, and were out of the station on the Pacific Coach Lines back to Victoria. There something that feels like home as you pass through Active Passage and can see Vancouver Island appear again. You've got to go away to come back.
I'd certainly repeat the trip again. VIA rail seems to be having a series of 40-60% of sales on the Canadian. Taking a cabin is not cheap, but a lower berth would be almost as good (getting the window while you sleep and about 6 inches more bed space. I'd probably avoid the non-sleeper class, unless I intended to hop on and off at various small towns on the way. But I do hope to take another long distant train journey again.
However in short:
- if you're in Regina, I'd avoid the Copper Kettle Inn (lousy food, lousy service), and the Wolseley Motel, Wolseley, Sasketchwan is clean and dry.
- the Ontario Shield is probably the most tedious road I have ever driven on. 600km from the Manitoba border to Thunder Bay is ALL THE SAME. Small lakes, twisty single lane road and trees and rocks. Repeated endlessly, for another 250km till I got on the train.
- if you get a chance to stop at the Park View Motel, Uppsala, don't. The worst, flea bitten, dirty roach-motel I've ever stayed in. If I had been a bit more awake, and not in fear of moose, I think we'd have got back in the car and kept driving.
But we made it to Longlac, Northern Ontario, where I had to say good bye to my friend who was off to points East, and I was due to get on the Canadian to Vancouver. Longlac station is not like the railway stations in the UK. There was only the slightest indication it was a station (with only 3 trains a week, why advertise), no platform, and no ticket office. In the middle of an empty industrial lot, in a town where no-one spoke English. With no cell phone reception, I had to hope that the pay phone would get me out of trouble if I needed to find a bed for the night. My friend had another 200km to go, so left me at 6pm, the train already 20 minutes late.
But after two calls to VIA rail's customer services, I discovered the service was running two hours behind schedule. This was good news, as at least I knew it was coming, so I sat back, got out my e-reader and waited. And waited, slapping the bloodsucking insects, and slowly sweating in the evening heat. I'd not had a decent nights sleep or shower in the last 36 hours. I was about to get on a overnight train, in a seat, with a chance of no food service.
The train did arrive, clanging through the town, and stopped at the station as planned. Only person to get on was me. No packages on, no packages off. A train crew all running around for one dirty lone traveller. Tonnes and tonnes of train stopped, for me. Ah, the power. Got on, was shown to a seat and given a quick spiel of the set up. Which, thankfully, included a restaurant car still open for another hour.
I set myself up, had a quick change and rinse in the train toilet and to the observation car, which also had a bar. A can of Canadian (well, why not) and I was feeling settled at least. Dinner was served, and a very reasonable meal of chicken fillet and vegetables, on plates at a table with random strangers was had. The strangest part of the trip, for me, was the random pairing you'd have at each meal, talking to strangers over food. Some people would love this. I'm a bit more anti-social, but found you could keep a decent conversation going with most people over the 30 minute food service.
I got back into my seat, flicked out the foot rest, set the seat back and tried to sleep. Managed it for about 45 minutes, but my fellow passengers included one person taking up four seats, and still managing to lie in a position designed to snore the loudest. I got up around Sioux Lookout where we stopped for twenty minutes for fuel and passengers. It was midnight, and we'd covered about 300km, but this would have been 600km by road.
The rest of the night I slept fitfully, wandering around, and eventually finding a nice spot wrapped up in all my sweaters in the observation car on the top deck. No-one else was up there, so while it was cold, it was quiet. Until about an hour outside of Winnipeg, when people started to wake up and look for something to do. Which was stare out of the windows of the observation car, and discuss the best way to keep a Mr Sub sandwich fresh for a 36 hour train ride from Toronto.
At Winnipeg, the standard passengers have to get off, even if going onwards to Vancouver, and go amuse themselves in the city. On a Saturday morning at 8am. Nothing is open in Winnipeg at 8am on a Saturday. Not the station coffee shop. Not the cafe's near by. The Mall opened at 8.30, but I eventually found the YMCA was open as well, and went for a shower and a swim. I knew my fellow travellers would prefer a freshly washed me. Plus the swim got me awake again. And it passed the time long enough so I could then go grab a cheap breakfast in the mall, and still have time to do some laundry. Washed, with clean clothes and big mug of coffee, I reported back to the station to collect my ticket for the next two days. This time in a berth, which meant a bed, meals and all the coffee and tea I could drink.
My Sleeper Carriage
The rest of Manitoba and Saskatchewan was more flat, rural countryside. I sat in one of the three observation cars for most the day, reading, napping and watching the world go by. The biggest problem I had on the trip that stopped my complete comfort (and we are hardly talking a massive one), was there was no plug sockets in the berth area. The only sockets I could find to charge phone and e-reader was on the lower floor of the observation deck, or in the wash-room in my sleeper carriage.
Each sleeper carriage had about 6 berths, a shower, two wash rooms and 6-8 cabins. The single person cabins were tiny, about the size of a twin bed. That space contained a sink the size of a cereal bowl and chair and a foot stool. The foot stool covered the toilet. Yep, each cabin had it's own toilet, right in the room. The chair and foot rest slide and unfolded into a bed that I assume takes up all the space. Meaning you sleep on top of a toilet. The two bed rooms with a upper and lower bunk had a small seperate wash-room, and they looked pretty cosy. There were bigger rooms, but I didn't get to sneak a look inside them.
My upper berth was made up around 9pm and consisted of a bunk bed, a thick curtain and a tricky climb up as the train rocked around a corner. There was no luggage shelf to put my overnight bag, but a careful arrangement of stuff meant I could tuck in quite nicely, shut the curtain and read myself to sleep. The gentle motion of the train sent me off to sleep, though at first the lack of a visual cue was a bit disconcerting. I went to bed with the train on time, and due in Edmonton at 6.30am. I had arranged to meet a couple of friends there for a cup of coffee, so I set the alarm for 6am for a shower and the first sitting of breakfast.
 |
| My Berth. That's me waving at the mirror, not a port-hole to another place. |
Hmm, my peeves seem to be based around the availability of electronics. This says more about me than anything else.
Edmonton arrived 2 hours later than planned. Unlike UK stations, the Edmonton rail station is well outside of the city, but one set of friends was there to say hello and catch up, while the train split itself in half to add a super-duper observation car for the trip through the Rockies. The trip to the Rockies took another three hours, crossing over various rivers, with the mountain range slowly looming into sight. I sat at the rear of the train for this section, in the very last car. This car had a great view from the back of the train, as well as a nice stock of tea and biscuits to keep me going.
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| The Rockies come into view |
The Sleeper passengers and Standard Class are kept separate, unless the Standard passengers have paid for the meal service. It's a little odd to think there's about as many spaces in the standard class three carriages as there is for the other 14 carriages in Sleeper class. All that added weight dragged across Canada for sleeping and eating. Still, the whole set up made for a bit of a cruise like feeling. You got up, took a short stroll down the train, then sat and watched the world go by, and maybe chatted to your fellow passengers, or read, or eavesdropped.
There seemed to be several regular travellers from Toronto, and one guy was marking up all the pictures he'd taken a month later with his map of the railway. Usefully, he could tell the rest of the observation car what we were looking at. Though with the air of someone damn well proud that he knew that "on the left, in 3 miles was great vista across the Athabasca", and that everyone else should know it.
We stopped in Jasper after entering the edge of the Rockies. I had an hour, so I jumped off and had a pint in the Jasper Brew Pub to see if their beer was worth the lousy service we'd had on the way out. It wasn't. The IPA tasted like a very over-hopped Pale, with no complexity or balance. The service was still slow. I'd have been better of saving my dollars for another Fort Garry Dark on the train.
We headed out of Jasper, climbing over the Yellowhead pass again, looking down on the river and highway. The scenery here was just as stunning as on the way out, with the added advantage of not having to concentrate on driving, and the extra height above ground also helping you appreciate the view. Mount Robson was seen again, and it was as stunning as the first time. Different time of day, and different angle. I think I'd happily take a hike around the base of the Mountain and just watch it change as the light and weather changes during the day.
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| Random waterfall on the Westside of the Rockies |
The VIA rail goes the long way around compared to the CP rail which goes through Calgary and the southern passes (and through some big looping tunnels). This makes for a long haul back down the Fraser River valley to Kamloops (400km+), and another 350km from there into Vancouver. So another night on the train, following the Fraser River. Another nights sleep when I went to bed thinking we were ahead of schedule, only to wake up early for breakfast and find ourselves still well outside the city. But another peaceful morning reading and eating a fantastic breakfast.
All the food was great. Small-ish portions, but well cooked and presented in the dining car with table service and (in one case) a song by the waiter. Nothing greasy, nothing that seemed just warmed over. Vegetables were fresh, nothing flash fried. The Raspberry Ice Cream cake was especially delicious, and they claimed the chef prepared it on the way. And at around $20 for a meal if you were paying as you go, it was good value. Not cheap, but there's many $40 dinners I've had that would have lost out in a fight with the simple, effective food on the train.
So into Vancouver, and were out of the station on the Pacific Coach Lines back to Victoria. There something that feels like home as you pass through Active Passage and can see Vancouver Island appear again. You've got to go away to come back.
I'd certainly repeat the trip again. VIA rail seems to be having a series of 40-60% of sales on the Canadian. Taking a cabin is not cheap, but a lower berth would be almost as good (getting the window while you sleep and about 6 inches more bed space. I'd probably avoid the non-sleeper class, unless I intended to hop on and off at various small towns on the way. But I do hope to take another long distant train journey again.
July 19, 2012
Spinnakers, Victoria West, Victoria
I originally reviewed Spinnakers over two years ago. Things have changed, and things have stayed the same. They still go for the locally sourced food, they still brew their own beer, and the cooking is still well executed. Things seem to be a little less adventurous in the kitchen, and the beer has become less on the edge. Maybe I've become more accustomed to West Coast way of things. But I think it's more that the standard fare is just a little more standard, and they've stopped calling the beer with interesting names.
I always take visitors to Spinnakers, as it's got a great view and great vibe. And my parents are visiting, and they've had enjoyable times there, so back we went after a day being tourists.
An order of the Pulled Pork Nachos was served for Mum. The personal serving is enough for two as a starter. Served with a mound of fresh, pig goodness and a good salsa, these were a good start to the proceedings. I went with a cup of the chowder, which is creamy, starchy and sea-food salty in equal measure. Nice chunks of (I think) clam in there too. Big bowl of this and lump of bread and I be set on a cold winter's day. Dad also went with the chowder, and seemed very happy with it all.
But as it was a warm summers day, I followed up with the Highland Beef Burger, with cheese. It looked a little small on arrival, the patty shirking away from the edges of the bun, and just capturing the cheese and onions. But this was a packed, juicy, meaty burger. No filler, no messing around with a loose, gristly badly cooked pile of ground meat. This was a BURGER. Beef, beef, and more beef. I needed the bun and salad to compensate for the protein overload. Fantastic. Probably doesn't need the cheese or onions, or the pickled cabbage. This patty. Crisp lettuce. Tomato. The mild BBQ Sauce. Kaiser Bun. Damn fine.
Mum went with the Cod and Chips, and was most happy. Dad had the Bangers and Smash. Very happy he was too with it. Good pile of potatoes, great sausages. Nothing extreme ordered at our table, but good quality, pub food. Looking through the menu (and there was no specials), things are pub food, or local twists. I have had the shrimp pizza here, and can recommend it as well.
Beer wise, I went for the Indian Session Ale. They had opened a Fresh Cask of their IPA with Williamette Hops, but even 90 minutes after opening it, it was all gone. The session ale is a bit like the old Doc's was, but served chilled. Clean, mildly hoppy and low enough in alcohol to have two without the parents wondering if their son was a sloppy drunk.
Service was just fair. Our server got a couple of things wrong and had to recheck what we had ordered. I prefer it when the wait staff write it down... a good memory doesn't impress me as much as getting what I ordered. Fake it if you have to. Make it look like I'm not leaving my food to chance. The pacing of the food was just a bit too slow, waiting for the initial service, or plates to be cleared and the bill to arrive. Might have been a busy session, but didn't feel that way.
Dessert, and I ordered the Raspberry Sorbet, as did Mum, while Dad went with Strawberry ice cream. The sorbet was excellent, intense raspberry flavour that refreshed the palate nicely. Three scoops was a bit much, but good end to a good meal.
Final Bill
Pulled Pork Nachos (Individual Size) : $8.00
2 Cups of Clam Chowder : $6.00 each
Highland Burger with Cheese : $15.00
Fish and Chips : $14.00
Bangers and Mash : $12.00
Raspberry Sorbet x2 : $6.00
House made Ice Cream : $6.00
2 pints of Indian Session Ale : $5.75 each
Tea and coffee : $5.00
Total Bill for three, including tips and taxes : $120.00
Address : 308 Catherine Street, Victoria
Telephone : (250) - 386 - 2739
Website : http://www.spinnakers.com/
I always take visitors to Spinnakers, as it's got a great view and great vibe. And my parents are visiting, and they've had enjoyable times there, so back we went after a day being tourists.
An order of the Pulled Pork Nachos was served for Mum. The personal serving is enough for two as a starter. Served with a mound of fresh, pig goodness and a good salsa, these were a good start to the proceedings. I went with a cup of the chowder, which is creamy, starchy and sea-food salty in equal measure. Nice chunks of (I think) clam in there too. Big bowl of this and lump of bread and I be set on a cold winter's day. Dad also went with the chowder, and seemed very happy with it all.
But as it was a warm summers day, I followed up with the Highland Beef Burger, with cheese. It looked a little small on arrival, the patty shirking away from the edges of the bun, and just capturing the cheese and onions. But this was a packed, juicy, meaty burger. No filler, no messing around with a loose, gristly badly cooked pile of ground meat. This was a BURGER. Beef, beef, and more beef. I needed the bun and salad to compensate for the protein overload. Fantastic. Probably doesn't need the cheese or onions, or the pickled cabbage. This patty. Crisp lettuce. Tomato. The mild BBQ Sauce. Kaiser Bun. Damn fine.
Mum went with the Cod and Chips, and was most happy. Dad had the Bangers and Smash. Very happy he was too with it. Good pile of potatoes, great sausages. Nothing extreme ordered at our table, but good quality, pub food. Looking through the menu (and there was no specials), things are pub food, or local twists. I have had the shrimp pizza here, and can recommend it as well.
Beer wise, I went for the Indian Session Ale. They had opened a Fresh Cask of their IPA with Williamette Hops, but even 90 minutes after opening it, it was all gone. The session ale is a bit like the old Doc's was, but served chilled. Clean, mildly hoppy and low enough in alcohol to have two without the parents wondering if their son was a sloppy drunk.
Service was just fair. Our server got a couple of things wrong and had to recheck what we had ordered. I prefer it when the wait staff write it down... a good memory doesn't impress me as much as getting what I ordered. Fake it if you have to. Make it look like I'm not leaving my food to chance. The pacing of the food was just a bit too slow, waiting for the initial service, or plates to be cleared and the bill to arrive. Might have been a busy session, but didn't feel that way.
Dessert, and I ordered the Raspberry Sorbet, as did Mum, while Dad went with Strawberry ice cream. The sorbet was excellent, intense raspberry flavour that refreshed the palate nicely. Three scoops was a bit much, but good end to a good meal.
Final Bill
Pulled Pork Nachos (Individual Size) : $8.00
2 Cups of Clam Chowder : $6.00 each
Highland Burger with Cheese : $15.00
Fish and Chips : $14.00
Bangers and Mash : $12.00
Raspberry Sorbet x2 : $6.00
House made Ice Cream : $6.00
2 pints of Indian Session Ale : $5.75 each
Tea and coffee : $5.00
Total Bill for three, including tips and taxes : $120.00
Address : 308 Catherine Street, Victoria
Telephone : (250) - 386 - 2739
Website : http://www.spinnakers.com/
July 13, 2012
Foo, Downtown, Victoria
Foo is a little cabin on the corner of Yates and Blanshard, right next to the Rialto Hotel and one of the down town liquor stores. It might even have been the original liquor store, but I don't quite recall from when I moved here. Foo specializes in Asian Street Food. Meaning quick dishes, like Pad Thai, Butter Chicken or Pork and Pineapple Fried Rice.
I've been there several times and never had a bad meal. I've had one or two things I didn't care for as muck (like the Tofu Pad Thai), but that was more trying out a different taste/texture combination than my normal choices.
I can recommend the Pork Fried Rice if you like a sweeter friend rice, which is balanced by the fatty, porky goodness. It's a great meal to kill the hunger cravings before watching a film at the Odeon. And not much more expensive than a couple of boxes of popcorn. I've also tried my friend's Saag Paneer. Which is a truly wonderful dish. Cheesy, spiced beautifully with a chili fried bread. Seriously good. The caramel chicken is a favourite as well, but I find the sauce a little too heavy for a full dish.
There's normally 2-3 specials plus about 8 standard choices. The specials often sell out, and like any sell out you wanted to eat is a disappointment, but what can you do? Tonight the specials were Rare Beef Salad, a Chop Salad and a Tofu Chow Mein. The later was sold out, but I wasn't feel like a salad or vegeterian.
I decided on the Beef and Broccoli Chow Mein with a bottle Cane Sugar Cola (diet). II'm not sure how a cane sugar cola can have 0 calories (or if it has cane sugar in it in the diet version), but refreshed parts that needed it after some beach volleyball at the Strathcona. The dish was another hit for me. Big chunks of boneless beef short rib, moist and perfectly cooked, with crisp greens, crisp bean sprouts and a mound of thin noodles. All covered in a well balanced, savoury sauce. A thin sauce in consistency, but with a great punch. I'd normally want to add some Soy Sauce to a dish like this, but the dressing here worked perfectly.
Which is just as well, as there's no condiments at Foo. Just chop sticks or cutlery on the side. Minor misstep for me, but I suspect I've enjoyed the food more by not auto-condimenting. You can also get food to go, though there's a trend for it to come in "parts" for the rice and meat dishes, in containers not big enough to add it all together to eat. But I normally sit down at the benches and just take a few minutes to enjoy the food, the world passing by and some conversation.
Final Bill
Beef and Broccoli Chow Mein - $13
Diet Cane Cola - $2.50
Total : $17.50 with taxes and tip
Address : 769 Yates Street, Victoria, British Columbia
Phone : (250) 383-3111
Website : http://foofood.ca/
I've been there several times and never had a bad meal. I've had one or two things I didn't care for as muck (like the Tofu Pad Thai), but that was more trying out a different taste/texture combination than my normal choices.
I can recommend the Pork Fried Rice if you like a sweeter friend rice, which is balanced by the fatty, porky goodness. It's a great meal to kill the hunger cravings before watching a film at the Odeon. And not much more expensive than a couple of boxes of popcorn. I've also tried my friend's Saag Paneer. Which is a truly wonderful dish. Cheesy, spiced beautifully with a chili fried bread. Seriously good. The caramel chicken is a favourite as well, but I find the sauce a little too heavy for a full dish.
There's normally 2-3 specials plus about 8 standard choices. The specials often sell out, and like any sell out you wanted to eat is a disappointment, but what can you do? Tonight the specials were Rare Beef Salad, a Chop Salad and a Tofu Chow Mein. The later was sold out, but I wasn't feel like a salad or vegeterian.
I decided on the Beef and Broccoli Chow Mein with a bottle Cane Sugar Cola (diet). II'm not sure how a cane sugar cola can have 0 calories (or if it has cane sugar in it in the diet version), but refreshed parts that needed it after some beach volleyball at the Strathcona. The dish was another hit for me. Big chunks of boneless beef short rib, moist and perfectly cooked, with crisp greens, crisp bean sprouts and a mound of thin noodles. All covered in a well balanced, savoury sauce. A thin sauce in consistency, but with a great punch. I'd normally want to add some Soy Sauce to a dish like this, but the dressing here worked perfectly.
Which is just as well, as there's no condiments at Foo. Just chop sticks or cutlery on the side. Minor misstep for me, but I suspect I've enjoyed the food more by not auto-condimenting. You can also get food to go, though there's a trend for it to come in "parts" for the rice and meat dishes, in containers not big enough to add it all together to eat. But I normally sit down at the benches and just take a few minutes to enjoy the food, the world passing by and some conversation.
Final Bill
Beef and Broccoli Chow Mein - $13
Diet Cane Cola - $2.50
Total : $17.50 with taxes and tip
Address : 769 Yates Street, Victoria, British Columbia
Phone : (250) 383-3111
Website : http://foofood.ca/
July 05, 2012
Spoons Diner, Victoria
Spoons used to be Floyd's second location. The receipt still says "Floyd's Diner" on it, so I am not sure if it's just a name change, a re-brand or a separate entity. The style, both of food, menu and service though is very similar to Floyd's. Diner food, with diner surroundings, but a little bit of a twist in there. A sense of humour about breakfast. I imagine the conversation is like this :
"Hey, bud, I was thinking, we could a Eggs Benedict "
"Yeah, we already do..."
"...but wait, for it... we serve it on crab cakes!"
"Awesome!"
"... with hollandaise using bacon grease!"
"Sounds great!"
"... and spicy chipotle mayo..."
"Erm..."
"... a deep fried dill pickle with sausages on a stick!"
"Calm down, and get with the Fishcake bennys... but will need a bad pun for the name...".
The "You did what? Eggs Benedict" was the special of the day, and was a big fat chunk of decent crab cake, with Poached Eggs, Muffin and a Hollandaise sauce that was meant to be made with bacon fat, but seemed no different from a normal sauce. Damn fine, though, was the verdict. Simple, effective.
Like the rest of the food, really. Simple and effect combinations of your breakfast favourites, served with hot coffee and a decent pace. Like all spots in Victoria that don't screw up your eggs, it has a line up, and line ups normally mean slower than really desirable service for the first meal of the day.
Still, I went with the Holy Chow... Asian Fried Rice meets Breakfast. Poached eggs, perfectly soft, oozing over a mound of fried rice, with water chestnut, those little corn cobs things, ham, sausage bits and a mound of toast. Carb loading. Perfectly fine once a week. It was good, the eggs dripping into the rice was lovely. Not quite as savoury as a normal dose of Chinese-style fried rice, so missed a bit there for me. Needed soy sauce, perhaps, but a filling breakfast.
It got me started for the day, and that's what I mostly desire at a breakfast joint. A full stomach and a chance to catch up with my friends.
Final Bill
Holy Chow : $12.50
Coffee : $2.50
Total : $17.00 with taxes and tip
Phone : (250) 382-5111
Address : 2915 Douglas St, Victoria, BC V8T4M8
Website : www.spoonsdiner.com (currently not working)
"Hey, bud, I was thinking, we could a Eggs Benedict "
"Yeah, we already do..."
"...but wait, for it... we serve it on crab cakes!"
"Awesome!"
"... with hollandaise using bacon grease!"
"Sounds great!"
"... and spicy chipotle mayo..."
"Erm..."
"... a deep fried dill pickle with sausages on a stick!"
"Calm down, and get with the Fishcake bennys... but will need a bad pun for the name...".
The "You did what? Eggs Benedict" was the special of the day, and was a big fat chunk of decent crab cake, with Poached Eggs, Muffin and a Hollandaise sauce that was meant to be made with bacon fat, but seemed no different from a normal sauce. Damn fine, though, was the verdict. Simple, effective.
Like the rest of the food, really. Simple and effect combinations of your breakfast favourites, served with hot coffee and a decent pace. Like all spots in Victoria that don't screw up your eggs, it has a line up, and line ups normally mean slower than really desirable service for the first meal of the day.
Still, I went with the Holy Chow... Asian Fried Rice meets Breakfast. Poached eggs, perfectly soft, oozing over a mound of fried rice, with water chestnut, those little corn cobs things, ham, sausage bits and a mound of toast. Carb loading. Perfectly fine once a week. It was good, the eggs dripping into the rice was lovely. Not quite as savoury as a normal dose of Chinese-style fried rice, so missed a bit there for me. Needed soy sauce, perhaps, but a filling breakfast.
It got me started for the day, and that's what I mostly desire at a breakfast joint. A full stomach and a chance to catch up with my friends.
Final Bill
Holy Chow : $12.50
Coffee : $2.50
Total : $17.00 with taxes and tip
Phone : (250) 382-5111
Address : 2915 Douglas St, Victoria, BC V8T4M8
Website : www.spoonsdiner.com (currently not working)
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